A leaky faucet wastes more than patience. A slow drip can add up to dozens of gallons a month, and the sound tends to get louder the moment you lie down to sleep. The good news is that most leaks come from worn internal parts that you can swap out with simple tools and a little care. You don’t need a shop full of gear or decades of experience, just a clear plan and a steady hand.
I’ve repaired more kitchen and bathroom faucets than I can count, from sleepy rentals with mystery hardware to high-end fixtures with finicky cartridges. The steps below reflect what actually works in real homes, including the small judgment calls that save time, knuckles, and gaskets. We’ll focus on common faucet types you’re likely to have: compression, cartridge, ceramic disk, and ball. If you aren’t sure which you own, don’t worry. You’ll identify it in a minute.
Along the way, I’ll flag when it makes sense to call for backup and how to avoid turning a quick fix into a weekend project. If you’re curious about broader plumbing topics, I’ll also touch on related questions like how to prevent plumbing leaks, what tools plumbers use, and when to call an emergency plumber.
Why faucets start leaking
Faucets seal water flow using rubber or synthetic parts that wear down slowly with every turn. Minerals in hard water scratch sealing surfaces, grit sneaks under washers, and heat cycles shrink and swell components until they stop sealing perfectly. A few common culprits show up over and over:
- Compression faucets use rubber washers that flatten and split with age. The leak often stops if you crank the handle harder, which unfortunately speeds up the wear. Cartridge faucets rely on a plastic or brass cartridge with O-rings. Those O-rings harden, and the cartridge grooves can score. Ceramic disk faucets use two polished ceramic plates. The plates rarely fail, but the neoprene seals feeding them do, and debris can cause a tiny chip that drips. Ball faucets (common on older single-handle kitchen fixtures) use springs and seats that weaken, plus a ball that can pit.
Occasionally, the leak isn’t from the spout at all. A seep around the base or under the sink points to failed O-rings, loose mounting hardware, or a supply line issue. If you see water in the cabinet, put down a towel and get a flashlight before you start.
Identify your faucet type and the leak’s origin
Turn the water on, then off, and watch where moisture appears. If the drip comes from the spout after shutoff, the internal valve isn’t sealing. If water beads around the handle, the stem packing or handle O-rings are tired. If the leak is under the sink, check the supply connections and the faucet’s mounting nuts.
To identify the faucet type, look at the handle arrangement. Two handles usually mean compression or cartridge. A single handle could be cartridge, ceramic disk, or ball. Remove the small cap on the handle (often marked hot or cold), then the handle screw, and lift off the handle. You’ll quickly see if you’re staring at a stem with a washer (compression), a smooth cartridge, a ceramic disk assembly, or a ball with springs and seats.
If you’re unsure, snap a clear photo with your phone and bring the part to a hardware store. Matching by eye is still the fastest way to avoid three trips and an exasperated afternoon.
The short, realistic tool list
Most leaks you can fix with tools you already own or can borrow. I keep this compact set for faucet work:
- Adjustable wrench or a set of open-end wrenches to fit nuts without rounding them. Screwdrivers, both Phillips and flat. Some handles hide tiny set screws that need a precision driver or a 2.5 mm hex key. Needle-nose pliers for springs, clips, and stubborn O-rings. Plumber’s grease, not petroleum jelly. It keeps O-rings supple and helps parts slide into place without tearing. A roll of Teflon tape for threaded connections, used sparingly. A small utility knife or pick to remove old O-rings. A towel and a rag to protect finishes and catch drips. A bowl to corral tiny parts.
If you run into tight clearances under the sink, a basin wrench is useful, although most faucet repairs happen above the counter. A flashlight or headlamp helps you see what you’re doing, especially in dim vanities.
Shut off the water and prepare the workspace
Close the shutoff valves under the sink by turning them clockwise. If the valves are stuck, don’t force them. Old angle stops can snap. Instead, gently work them back and forth or spray a touch of penetrating oil at the stem. If a valve won’t budge or leaks, you may need to shut off the main water supply to the home, which is typically near the meter or in a basement utility area. Open the faucet to relieve pressure and verify the water is off. Pull the stopper and put a rag in the drain. That rag will save screws and springs from taking a one-way trip to the P-trap.
Before you loosen anything glossy, wrap it in a rag to keep wrench jaws from scratching it. If a handle is stuck, apply steady upward pressure rather than rocking side to side, which can stress the stem.
Step-by-step: how to fix a leaky faucet in under an hour
Here is a clear, minimal sequence you can follow. If your faucet type differs, jump to the specific notes afterward.
- Remove the handle. Pry off the cap if present, unscrew the handle screw, and lift the handle straight up. Set small parts in a bowl. Expose the valve. Unscrew the trim and retaining nut or clip. Take a photo of the assembly so reassembly is painless. Extract the working part. For compression, you’ll remove the stem. For cartridge and ceramic disk, pull the cartridge or disk assembly straight out. For a ball, lift the cap and remove the ball with its springs and seats. Replace wear parts. Swap washers and packing on compression stems, O-rings on cartridges, seals on ceramic disks, and springs and seats on ball faucets. Apply a light coat of plumber’s grease to new rubber parts. Reassemble and test. Reinstall in the reverse order. Open the shutoff valves slowly, then crack the faucet to bleed air. If it drips for a minute, let it clear the air and debris. If the drip continues, snug the retaining nut slightly, then retest.
If your faucet still leaks, you likely need the exact OEM cartridge or a stem rebuild kit. Aftermarket parts sometimes fit loosely enough to leave a tiny drip. This is where the phone photo and the old part become your passport at the parts counter.
Compression faucets: washers and packing
Two handles with a firm stop at full off usually means compression. The cold side often fails first, especially in kitchens where people crank it tight. Unscrew the decorative cap, remove the handle screw, lift the handle, then loosen the packing nut beneath it. The entire stem should back out. Inspect the end washer. If it’s cupped, brittle, or missing a chunk, that’s your drip. Make sure the seat inside the faucet body is smooth. If it’s pitted, use a seat wrench to remove and replace the seat, or try a seat dressing tool to polish minor damage. Replace the washer with the same size, install a new screw if the head is corroded, and add fresh packing material or an O-ring under the packing nut. A tiny dab of grease helps the stem turn easily. Reassemble and snug the packing nut just enough to stop weeping around the stem. Overtightening makes the handle stiff and shortens the life of the packing.
Cartridge faucets: O-rings and the cartridge itself
Modern single-handle faucets commonly use cartridges. These are faster to service because the cartridge carries all the sealing surfaces. After removing the handle, pull the retaining clip with pliers, then ease the cartridge out. If it protests, wiggle gently rather than twisting hard, which can scar the body. Check for two common issues: dried O-rings on the cartridge and mineral buildup. If the O-rings are squared off or cracked, replace them and apply plumber’s grease. If water still seeps from the spout after shutoff, install a new cartridge matched to your faucet brand and model. Some cartridges look similar across brands, but tolerances vary. That close-enough part on the shelf is the usual reason a “fixed” faucet still drips.
Ceramic disk faucets: seals and clean water
Ceramic disks are durable, which is why you find them on many premium fixtures. When these leak, debris or worn inlet seals are typically at fault. Remove the handle and trim to expose the disk cartridge. Lift it out carefully. Inspect the rubber seals at the cartridge base and replace them if they’ve hardened. Rinse the ceramic surfaces with clean water only. Avoid abrasives or vinegar on the disks. Reassemble, then open the shutoff valves slowly to avoid blasting the disks with a surge of air and grit. If you have hard water, a small inline supply filter extends the life of ceramic assemblies.
Ball faucets: springs and seats
Older single-handle kitchen faucets with a round cap often use a ball valve. Under the cap you’ll find a ball and two small rubber seats, each backed by a spring. Leaks here are usually jb rooter and plumbing reviews tired springs and flattened seats. Replace them as a pair. Seat the springs first, set the new rubber cups over them, then drop in the ball so the alignment tab sits in its notch. Reinstall the cam and packing, then the cap. A smear of plumber’s grease on the ball improves feel and sealing.
Common gotchas and how to dodge them
Every house throws curveballs. Here are the recurring ones:
Stuck handles. Mineral crust bonds handles to stems. Aim a hair dryer on low to warm the handle hub. Heat expands the metal slightly and breaks the grip. Gentle upward pressure wins over prying.
Retaining clips that fly. Cover the clip with a finger as you pull it, or it will spring across the room. If it bends, reshape it carefully with pliers; a loose clip lets the cartridge shift and leak under pressure.
Mismatched parts. Brands sometimes change internal parts mid-production. If your new cartridge looks off by even a millimeter, take the old one to the store. Staff at plumbing counters are skilled at matching obscure shapes.
Cross-threaded trim. Trim rings and nuts should spin on easily by hand for a few turns. If they bind, back off and realign. Cross-threading ruins threads and leaks.
Overtightening. It’s tempting to crank everything down “so it never leaks again.” That approach splits plastic collars and flattens O-rings. Snug plus a touch is the sweet spot.
How long it really takes
If you’ve never opened a faucet, expect 45 minutes for a straightforward compression or cartridge repair, including a parts run if you pre-scout your model. Ceramic disk and ball faucets usually fall within the same window. The wild card is a stubborn handle or a part you need to match. Taking clear photos before you leave the house cuts the trip short.
When the leak is not the faucet
Sometimes, a puddle points at the faucet but the culprit is nearby. Compression nuts on supply lines loosen over time, especially if someone stored a heavy cleaner bottle against them. A quarter turn with a wrench often fixes a slow seep. Braided supply lines have a service life, usually 5 to 10 years. If you see bulges, rust stains, or fraying, replace them. They’re inexpensive, and swapping them takes ten minutes with basic wrenches.
If the leak appears only when you run the faucet and shows up in the cabinet, check the sprayer hose on kitchen faucets. A cracked hose drips down the line and collects on the cabinet floor. Replacement hoses are specific to the faucet model.
How to prevent plumbing leaks in the first place
Small maintenance habits pay for themselves. Move the shutoff valves twice a year so they don’t seize. If you have hard water, clean aerators and showerheads every few months. Unscrew the aerator, soak it in warm water with a little vinegar, rinse, and reinstall. That reduces back pressure and noise, and it helps with how to fix low water pressure complaints that are actually clogged screens rather than supply issues.
Avoid excessive force when turning handles. If a faucet keeps dripping unless you crank it tight, the washer is worn. Replacing it now saves the seat from damage later. Under sinks, keep the cabinet free of heavy stored items that can bump supply lines and loosen fittings. A quick look with a flashlight during seasonal cleaning can catch a tiny weep before it swells into cabinet damage.
What tools do plumbers use that help on DIY jobs
Pros carry basin wrenches, strap wrenches for delicate finishes, and seat wrenches for old compression bodies. A strap wrench grips without marring chrome, which is handy on stuck trim. A small roll of emery cloth cleans threads and valve seats. None of these are expensive, and they make the work smoother. Plumber’s grease is the unsung hero. It extends O-ring life and makes future repairs easier because parts won’t bond together.
When to call an emergency plumber, and what does a plumber do beyond faucets
A steady drip rarely ranks as an emergency. Call immediately if you cannot shut off the water, if a valve breaks, or if you see water traveling into ceilings or walls. Water moving beyond the fixture can turn cosmetic damage into a structural problem. Lost water pressures, sewage odors, or a gurgling toilet across the house while running the sink can signal bigger system issues, not a faucet.
People often ask what does a plumber do outside of repairs like this. The range is broad: they install and service water heaters, set up backflow prevention devices that protect your drinking water, perform drain cleaning, replace garbage disposals, repair leak-prone pipe sections, winterize plumbing in seasonal properties, and diagnose hidden leaks with thermal or acoustic tools. They also handle trenchless sewer repair where appropriate, inspect gas lines in some jurisdictions, and advise on water pressure regulation to prevent stress on fixtures.
Costs, if DIY turns into a hire
You can fix most faucet leaks for under 20 to 40 dollars in parts. Hiring out a simple faucet repair can run 100 to 250 dollars depending on region, brand, and whether parts are proprietary. If you’re wondering how much does a plumber cost for an hour, expect 75 to 200 dollars for labor rates, with service fees that cover travel and diagnosis. Emergency calls outside business hours often carry a premium.
Curious what is the average cost of water heater repair or what is the cost of drain cleaning while you’re budgeting? Water heater repairs vary wildly: simple component swaps like a thermostat or element might be 150 to 350 dollars, while complex issues or tank leaks can push you toward replacement. Basic drain cleaning for a sink or tub often runs 100 to 300 dollars. Deeper blockages that need camera inspection or what is hydro jetting work will cost more, commonly 300 to 600 dollars depending on access and length of pipe. These numbers fluctuate with local markets and the specifics of your home.
A quick aside: low water pressure and running toilets
Leaks sometimes bring out other nagging issues. If your faucet trickles, start with the aerator. Sediment and scale cut flow dramatically. Clean or replace it. If the problem spans the entire house, you may have a failing pressure regulator or a partially closed valve. For how to fix low water pressure at a single fixture, check the supply valves under the sink. They should be fully open. If you have flexible connectors, look for kinks.
For how to fix a running toilet, the most common fix is a new flapper and a correct chain length. If the toilet runs at random intervals, water is sneaking from the tank into the bowl. Dye tabs or a few drops of food coloring in the tank help confirm it. If the flush is weak or the bowl clogs easily, you’re in the territory of how to unclog a toilet. A quality plunger with a flange, a few steady pushes, and patience solve most clogs. If the toilet overflows and you smell sewage elsewhere, that’s a time to pause and consider calling in help.
How to detect a hidden water leak
If you suspect a hidden leak because your meter spins when everything is off, test by shutting off fixtures systematically. Many meters have a small red or black triangle that spins with tiny flows. Turn off the house’s main valve to confirm the meter itself isn’t faulty. Plumbers use acoustic sensors and thermal cameras to locate leaks inside walls, and they can pressure-test lines to isolate sections. Minor drips leave clues: warped baseboards, musty smells, or a warm spot on a slab if a hot line is pinholed.
Winterizing and burst pipe prevention
If you live where freezing is real, know what causes pipes to burst. Water expands as it freezes, but the failure often occurs downstream where ice blockage traps pressure. To winterize plumbing in a seasonal home, shut the water off, drain lines, open faucets, detach hoses from hose bibbs, and consider insulating exposed runs. Foam pipe sleeves are inexpensive. Hose bibb covers add a buffer against wind. Inside, keep cabinet doors open on the coldest nights to let warm air surround sink supplies on exterior walls. A drip from a faucet can relieve pressure during a freeze, but don’t rely on it alone if your insulation and air sealing are lacking.
Backflow prevention, quickly explained
What is backflow prevention, and why does it show up on work orders? Backflow happens when water flows the wrong direction and pulls contaminants into the clean supply. A hose in a pesticide bucket connected to a hose bibb during a pressure drop is a classic risk. Backflow preventers are valves that allow flow one way only. Many cities require them on irrigation systems and some commercial fixtures. If you add landscaping irrigation, use a proper backflow device and schedule periodic testing if your local code requires it.
Choosing and verifying a pro when you need one
If your faucet turns out to be an oddball or corroded beyond easy repair, the right pro will save time and damage. On how to find a licensed plumber, start with your state’s licensing database, then look at insurance, recent reviews that mention similar work, and responsiveness. Ask about warranty on labor and parts. For how to choose a plumbing contractor for larger jobs, prioritize clear communication and detailed, written estimates that specify materials. A contractor who explains options, including the budget choice and the premium choice, is worth keeping. If a sewer issue crops up, ask about camera inspection and whether trenchless sewer repair is viable. Trenchless methods minimize landscape disruption and are excellent when pipe alignment and access allow it.
Garbage disposals and related faucet leaks
A surprising number of “leaky faucets” in kitchens are actually disposals dripping at the top gasket or the side discharge. For how to replace a garbage disposal, the steps are manageable if you’re comfortable working under the sink: disconnect power, loosen the discharge tube, twist the mounting ring to release the unit, swap the sink flange and gasket if they’re worn, then twist on the new unit and reconnect. Always remove the dishwasher knockout on the disposal if your dishwasher drains through it, or you’ll get a mess the first time you run a cycle. Running cold water while the disposal runs, and a brief flush afterward, extends motor life.
Safety, codes, and knowing your limits
Shutoffs should always operate smoothly. If your angle stops are crusted or the handles bend, replacing them is a quick job for a plumber, and it pays dividends during every future repair. Hot water lines near 140 degrees can soften O-rings and washers faster, so confirm your water heater is set in the 120 range. That temperature is safer and easier on your plumbing.
Respect finishes. Chrome and nickel scar easily. Use a rag under wrench jaws, never pliers straight on polished surfaces. If you encounter old galvanized pipe, be gentle. Breaking a brittle nipple in the wall escalates a faucet repair into open-wall surgery.
If the repair scope expands or you encounter damaged valve seats, seized shutoffs, or active leaks you can’t stop, it’s time to pause. When to call an emergency plumber is simple: you can’t control the water, or water is moving toward structural materials. Otherwise, a scheduled appointment is usually sufficient and kinder to the budget.
The payoff
A faucet that shuts off cleanly and quietly makes a kitchen or bathroom feel cared for. The repair is one of the most satisfying household fixes because the feedback is immediate. You’ll also get a better sense of how the fixture was installed, which helps you judge its remaining life. If the body is heavily corroded, if parts are discontinued, or if you’re chasing multiple leaks, replacement might be the smarter path. But for most homes, a new washer, cartridge, or set jb rooter and plumbing ca of springs and seats gives you years of quiet service.
If you ever wonder whether to tackle small plumbing jobs yourself, a leaky faucet is the perfect starting point. It teaches the feel of threaded connections, the rhythm of shutoff and test, and the value of the right part matched well. And when the next drip starts up, you’ll reach for a towel and a wrench with confidence rather than earplugs.